The nomad

Waking up at dawn in Gouna, Egypt.

I’m renting in Abu Tig marina next to a nightclub run by Germans. It being Thursday, I know the quiet ends tonight.

I slept on the floor, in front of the TV in the living room. The cheap mattress in the bedroom has ruined my back. The bed’s support ribs move around at night, and eventually the mattress dips through the holes like the badly maintained clay tennis court up the road.

Perhaps I tore a muscle on one of the wild tuc-tuc rides to downtown Gouna.

There’s a strong breeze coming in from the North. The air is cooler than at any time since I’ve been here.

Knowing it won’t last, I open all the windows, which are screened.

Good to finally get some fresh air in here, instead of being trapped in a hermetically sealed apartment cooled by a rusty, noisy, old wall AC unit whose air filter I’m sure never’s been changed.

I make some Turkish coffee, and wash down my vitamins with a glass of cold water drawn from the Siwa oasis.

The noise from the street spills into the apartment.

I watch CNN to catch up on the US and have trouble hearing the TV.

Abu Tig is very busy in the morning. Workers going to the hotels and restaurants; tourists setting out on their adventures for the day; buses and tuc-tucs going about their business.

It’s loud.

The US is still being manipulated like a marionette. So nothing new here. I switch off the TV and look out the window at the yachts bobbing in the water.

An old friend of mine arrived yesterday.  I call him, and we agree to meet at a restaurant this evening.

He offered I stay in a guest room at his villa on Thursday and Friday, which is when the German club across the street blasts music till 4am.

Maybe tomorrow night.

With the weather cooling, I can start to actually explore Gouna in the days ahead.

Been holed up here for two weeks.

I want to be nearer the sea.  In Dahab, I would walk along the desert for hours and find empty lagoons with fine sand and multi-hued blue water and spot dolphin and sea turtles swimming by the shore.

Now Dahab is built up, and it’s no longer possible to easily do this on foot.

I want to find a way to get to the southern edge of Gouna, away from everything.

It would nice to find an empty beach and snorkel and then slowly read The Red Sea Mountains of Egypt by L. A. Tregenza, and glance up at those mountains from time to time as I read.

Priority for me is to find a suitable villa by Nov 15th, when my flat rental ends.

Ideally — and this may be in the realm of fantasy — I’d find a quiet, small, affordable place for my wife and I to live by the sea.

Far away from all the traffic and night-time bright lights that prevent one from seeing the stars properly, which are like alma’z on the Red Sea.

I would probably have to buy us bicycles; cheap ones, with shopping baskets over the front wheel, to get us to town to shop for food and water and other necessities.

Time for a positive disposition.

I don’t live in America anymore.

leaving america


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